Nose and Tail

Tutorial on the Nose and Tail

There are various ways to construct the nose and tail, all are challenging - and rewarding!

Options include: mitered (nose), rabbeted block (nose and tail), capped (tail/transom).

Project Rail Shape Onto Nose

Begin by marking the back of each rail strip where it lands onto the nose.

Shaping nose profile on hollow, wood strip-planked paddleboards.

The projected shape of the rail layout provides nose shape, as pictured below. 

Nose profile projected on spar for joining strips on hollow, wood strip-planked paddleboards.

Stabilize Spar at Nose

After cutting the nose to shape, be sure to stabilize the spar with a block of scrap plywood secured flat to the assembly table. 

Spar stabilized on assembly table for perpendicular joining of strips.

First Strips Installed Long

The first strips installed should extend beyond the nose. Later, miter cut these strips. 

Initial full-length strip installed, terminating at nose of hollow, wood paddleboard frame layout.

Be creative with clamping strategies. The angles are difficult, especially with wet epoxy.

Spring miter clamps are popular, or try a stepped angular block pictured below. Blue painter's tape and wax paper wrapped around the block will peel away from the nose after the epoxy sets, which prevents any clamping blocks from adhering to the board.

Clamping strategies for joining full-length strips at the nose of hollow, wood paddleboard.

Below is an example of a mitered nose on a Cascade. 

Example of mitering strips to achieve nose profile on hollow, wood strip-planked paddleboard.

Sculpting the Nose Block

If selecting the rabbeted nose block method, project the rail shape onto the block. Then, account for the strip thickness as you mark the rabbet location. Strips will land on the rabbet so that the ends are uniformly flush to lineup vertically. 

Rough sculpt the nose block, sighting from nose to tail, paying careful attention that both sides are symmetrical. There are a variety of nose profiles that work well. A nose block formed from contrasting wood looks best, preferably matching pin lines and false stringer. 

Rabbeted nose blocking as alternative to mitering for terminating full-length strips on hollow, wood paddleboard.

Glue (epoxy) the strips onto the rabbet. Take your time and enjoy the process. 

Initial full-length strips terminating on rabbeted nose blocking to achieve profile on hollow, wood paddleboard.

The same logic applies if selecting a rabbeted block for the tail.

Below are two examples of rabbeted nose and tail blocks on the Umpqua.

Examples of rabbeted nose and tail blocking on hollow, wood strip-planked paddleboard.
Examples of rabbeted nose and tail blocking on hollow, wood strip-planked paddleboard.

Tail Strips

If selecting the capped tail method, strips run long at the tail and are cut to shape after all strips are installed. 

Capping method as alternative to rabbeted tail block on hollow, wood strip-planked paddleboard.

Capped Tail

After strips are cut to shape the tail is "capped".

Capped tail as alternative to rabbeted blocking on hollow, wood strip-planked paddleboard.

Whether capping or rabbeting, the tail blocks can be as simple or complex as you wish.

Below is an example of a more complex rabbeted tail block on a Cascade. 

Example of decorative rabbeted tail blocking on hollow, wood strip-planked paddleboard.

Next, review the tutorial on strip planking a hollow wood board. 

Please reach out with your questions!